You do not come to Bandol by chance. You come because you drank a red Bandol one evening and wanted to see where something so serious came from. Mourvèdre, the king grape of the appellation, produces powerful, tannic wines that need time, some keep for 20 years and more. There is a kind of stubbornness in this wine that resembles the town itself: not flashy, not easy, but deeply honest.
The Bandol vineyard: a human-scale appellation
Only 1,600 hectares spread over eight communes between Bandol and Ollioules. The Bandol AOC is one of the smallest and most coherent in Provence. Red wines make up most of the production, but the rosés and whites are also worth the detour. Among the estates open to visits: Domaine Tempier (the reference), Château Pibarnon in La Cadière-d'Azur, Domaine de la Suffrène, Château Salettes, Domaine Ray-Jane and Domaine de l'Olivette. All reachable within a few kilometres of Bandol or La Cadière.
The port and the island of Bendor
The Bandol marina hosts 600 boats in a very pleasant setting, lined with restaurants and terraces. A few minutes by boat from the quay, the island of Bendor, a former property of Paul Ricard, is home to a few galleries, a beach and the Museum of Wines and Spirits. A quiet interlude between two tastings.
How to organise a day of tastings
Visiting three or four estates in a day while driving yourself is not a reasonable idea, and it is the only valid objection to this type of excursion. Having an MR Taxi driver at your disposal for a half-day or a full day solves the problem elegantly: you taste, I drive. Quote available on request from Marseille, Toulon or Aix.
In summer: call the estates in advance
In July and August, the cellars receive many visitors. Some estates offer table d'hôte or meals by reservation, and Château de Pibarnon has a sea view from its terrace that you do not see everywhere. On the way back, I take the Baou passes from Le Castellet: these winding roads above the sea are a spectacle in themselves.
Taste Bandol without driving: MR Taxi Bandol puts a driver at your disposal for a half-day or a full day for your estate tour, available 24/7.